Can-Am Maverick R Oil Change Guide: How to Service Your Turbo

Let’s be honest: the owner’s manual for your Can-Am Maverick R is a dry read. It tells you what to do, but it doesn't give you the street-smart strategies, the crucial torque numbers, or the little pro tips that keep your $30,000+ machine screaming down the trail instead of sitting in the shop.

Changing the oil on this turbo beast isn’t hard, but doing it perfectly is the secret handshake to maximum engine life and consistent, brutal performance.

Ready to ditch the dealership and get hands-on with your machine? Let’s walk through the ultimate Maverick R oil change—complete with insider knowledge you won't find on a stamped factory page.

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Tools & Supplies You’ll Need

Before you start turning wrenches, get everything laid out. It keeps things clean and prevents mid-job scrambling.

• Oil: 2.96 quarts (2.8 L) of 5W-40 full synthetic.

  • Drew's pick: Maxima Racing Oils Fully Synthetic Engine Oil —great stability in turbo heat.

• Filter: Fresh oil filter (OEM 420956747 or quality aftermarket)

• Sockets & Tools:

  • Socket wrench

  • 17mm socket (correct size for the drain plug)

  • Torque wrench

  • Funnel (long neck helps a lot)

• Other Essentials:

  • Oil drain pan

  • Clean rags or shop towels

  • Brake cleaner or degreaser (for cleanup)

  • Optional: Oil analysis kit if you want to track engine health

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Step 0: Prep Before You Wrench

Do this part correctly and the rest of the job goes much smoother.

1. Warm It Up: Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes. Warm oil flows faster and drains more completely.

2. Park & Set Brake: Park the Maverick R on level ground and engage the parking brake.

3. Drop the Skid Plate—Only Halfway: Remove just the rear fasteners to expose the drain plug.

   • Pro Tip: You don’t need to pull the front plate. Partial removal is all you need and saves a ton of time.

4. Position the Pan: Slide your drain pan under the engine.

Now you’re ready to get your hands dirty.

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Step 1: Drain the Oil

1. Crawl under the Maverick R and locate the drain plug at the bottom of the engine.

2. Use your 17mm socket to loosen and remove the drain bolt.

    3. Let the oil drain for a full 5 minutes—don’t rush this step.

    4. While it drains, inspect the O-ring on the plug. Replace it if it’s flattened or damaged.

    5. Reinstall the drain plug and torque it to 21 ft-lb (28.5 N·m).

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Step 2: Swap the Oil Filter

1. Move to the right side of the engine—this is where the oil filter housing sits.

     2. Remove the old filter and clean the sealing surface so the new filter sits correctly.

     3. Lightly oil the new filter’s gasket.

     4. Install it by hand, then use your torque wrench to tighten the cap to 7 ft-lb (9.5 N·m).

• • Hand-tight plus the torque spec equals a guaranteed, leak-free seal.

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Step 3: Add Fresh Oil

1. Remove the fill cap on top of the engine.

2. Slowly pour in 2.96 quarts (2.8 L) of your 5W-40 synthetic oil.

3. Put the cap back on, start the engine for 10–15 seconds (to prime the new filter), then shut it off.

4. Pull the dipstick and check the level.

   • Pro Tip: Pour slowly. The fill neck on the Maverick R can “burp” if you dump oil too fast. And do not overfill—this engine is happiest right at the recommended capacity mark.

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Step 4: Verify and Conclude

1. Reinstall the rear skid plate and all its fasteners.

2. Look under the engine for any signs of seepage around the plug or filter. Clean off any oily fingerprints or drips with brake cleaner.

3. Take a short test ride.

4. Recheck the dipstick when you get back. If everything looks dry and the level is good, the job is done.

Drew’s Shop Notes: Helpful Tips

• Keep spare O-rings on hand. They’re cheap, and they prevent the vast majority of post-service leaks.

• Go slow when filling. A steady pour avoids trapped air and splashing.

• Oil analysis is worth it if you ride hard. A lab can spot fuel dilution, dust intrusion, or bearing wear long before you’d notice symptoms.

Service Intervals

Can-Am recommends changing your oil every:

• 100 hours, OR

• 1,900 miles (3,000 km)

  • Whichever comes first.

If you ride dunes, mud, slow technical trails, or constantly push high temps, shorten that interval. Fresh oil is the cheapest insurance you can buy for a turbo engine.

Conclusion

Changing the oil on your Maverick R isn’t just maintenance—it’s part of the ownership experience. Once you know the steps and the crucial torque specs, it’s quick, clean, and gives you peace of mind every time you fire it up. Follow these steps, use quality oil, and your Maverick R will stay ready for whatever terrain you throw at it next.